Parisian Bistro Menu: Side - Céleri-rave Rémoulade

Ribbons of celeriac dressed in a French-style rémoulade topped with pea shoots, fried capers, and chopped walnut praline.

This is the side dish and/or starter for my Parisian Bistro Menu. It is also the free recipe this week. To access all the recipes from this Hardcore Supper Club menu, upgrade to paid. If not, enjoy the salad!

It’s pretty safe to say that if you grew up in France, you know this dish. This ubiquitous salad is often referred to as “French Coleslaw” because it fulfills a similar purpose on the plate, and it is as widespread as the chip shop and Southern BBQ mainstay. But before we get to the history, let’s talk about what this dish is. Céleri-Rave Rémoulade is a salad comprised of julienned celeriac root dressed in the French form of rémoulade. Chopped capers, cornichons, and herbs, like parsley and tarragon, are sometimes added for extra flavour and colour.

French rémoulade is not to be confused with Creole rémoulade. Like Creole rémoulade, French rémoulade is a mayonnaise-based sauce, but that is where the similarities end. French rémoulade goes heavy on the Dijon mustard and fresh herbs. In contrast, Creole rémoulade carries far more ingredients like cayenne, hot sauce, and horseradish. French rémoulade is golden in colour, while the Creole version sports a soft pink hue due to the addition of either ketchup or chili sauce.

The word “rémoulade” hails from Picardy, a region located in Northern France. It is derived from the word “rémolat” or “ramolas”, which means horseradish. This suggests that historical versions of rémoulade contained horseradish, though the condiment seems to have lost its primary ingredient by the time it was first recorded in 1693 by Francois Massillon in his tome Le Cuisinier Royal et Bourgeois. But in this instance, rémoulade was primarily used for cold meats and fish.

It wasn’t until the mid-1800s that the sauce met its match in celeriac, and Céleri-Rave Rémoulade was born. From there, the salad made its way onto the Assiette de Crudités (mixed raw vegetable platter) section of early bistro menus, slowly solidifying its status as an emblem of everyday French life. Beyond its storied history on bistro menus, Céleri-Rave Rémoulade graces the to-go counters of butcher shops and grocery stores all over France. It’s even a school cafeteria favourite, because hey, start them young.

One quick note: when making a French-style rémoulade, use a light olive oil. The usual extra virgin will overpower the delicate notes of the French rémoulade. You can, of course, use a neutral oil, like canola, sunflower, or grape seed, instead. But I like the hint of olive. It brings a soft bitterness that I find compelling.

While the salad is undeniably delicious, some of its popularity stems from its practicality. Celeriac has played a prominent role in French agriculture since the 17th century. And it’s not hard to see why. The hearty root vegetable has a lengthy shelf life, making it an excellent option for wintertime salads. And from an early bistro’s standpoint, celeri-rave rémoulade is simple to make, requires no cooking, and improves over time. Perfect for the petite, pieced-together kitchens of the early Parisian bistro.

While simplicity is the name of the game when it comes to dishes like Celeri-rave Rémoulade, I couldn’t resist dolling it up a little. I added a heap of pea shoots for a burst of freshness and colour. Watercress would’ve been more historically accurate because the area around Paris was rife with it around this period. The green was a classic garnish for all strata of society. It was celebrated as a plate cleanser among the fashionable set and was considered quality, affordable ruffage for the working classes. Sadly, I did not cross paths with it when I made this salad. But if you can get your hands on it, swap it in. The peashoots did well in a pinch, but they did lack that pepperiness that only watercress can bring.

I also added chopped walnut praline as a nod to the Périgord region. During the French Industrial Revolution, many people from the countryside immigrated to the city of Paris. Immigrants from the Périgord, Lyon, and, in particular, the Auvergne regions of France are considered to be the most prominent and influential founders of the Parisian bistro. Many of their traditional ingredients and dishes have become synonymous with bistro culture, so it seemed fitting to include one of the many culinary emblems of the Périgord region - the walnut. Walnuts from this region even enjoy PDO status. While the praline is not a traditional ingredient, I find its deep sweetness is the perfect counterpoint to the sharp, umami-heavy flavour of the celeri-rave remoulade. So without further ado, here is my rendition of the French-favorite Céleri-rave Rémoulade.

Enjoy!